Veal Kidneys with Gin and Mustard

Ingredients:

• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
• 1/4 pound white mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and quartered
• 1/2 pound cremini mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and quartered
• 2 tablespoons finely minced shallots
• salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 2 veal kidneys, all fat removed, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1/2 cup genever (Belgian gin) or Cognac
• 1/2 cup beef froth, preferably homemade
• 1/2 cup heavy (or whipping) cream
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon or 1 teaspoon dried tarragon
• 1 to 3 teaspoons Dijon or Tierenteyn mustard

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a medium-size heavy skillet over medium heat. Add all the mushrooms and saute until browned slightly, about 5 minutes. Add the shallots and cook 1 minute longer. Season lightly with salt and pepper, remove from the skillet, and set aside.
Dredge the cubed kidneys with the flour.
Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in the same skillet. Add the kidneys and saute over medium-high heat until nicely browned on both sides but still pink inside, about 5 minutes.
Off the heat, carefully flambe the kidneys with the gin. When the flames die down, season with salt and pepper and transfer to a warmed platter.
Deglaze the skillet with the broth over high heat, scraping up all the little browned bits from the bottom. Add the mushroom mixture, cream, dried tarragon if using, and the juce that has collected in the platter holding the kidneys. Reduce the heat and simmer until the sauce thickens to the consistency of heavy cream. Whisk in the mustard, judging the amount by the strength of the mustard (the Tierenteyn mustard is strong stuff!).
Just before serving, reheat the sidneys over low heat in the warm sauce. Don't overcook the kidneys or they will be tough. They should remain slightly pink on the inside. Sprinkle the fresh tarragon, if using, over the kidneys and serve immediately.

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